First World War souvenir embroidery

During the First World War souvenir embroidery became incredibly popular, many people have in their own homes embroidered postcards from the First World War, either bought abroad and sent home to loved ones, or embroidered by the soldiers themselves.  Tyne and Wear Archives and Museums has a wonderful collection of various types of souvenir embroidery from the First World War……….

Postcards.

TWCMS_H21249.5d

TWCMS : H21249.5

TWCMS_2004_2262b

TWCMS : 2004.2262

TWCMS_1997_3859

TWCMS : 1997.3859

TWCMS_1997_3860

TWCMS ; 1997.3860

TWCMS_2001_208a

TWCMS : 2001.208

TWCMS_2001_3478a

TWCMS : 2001.3478

TWCMS_2001_3477a

TWCMS : 2001.3477

TWCMS_H21249.1-a

TWCMS : H21249.1

We have a real mix of embroidered postcards in our collections.  Some of these postcards would have been embroidered by local women in France and Belgium and sold to passing soldiers as a way to make some much needed money.  Others would have been embroidered by the soldiers themselves as a way to keep occupied whilst convalescing.  There is one which even sends greetings from Wallsend which must have been sent to the front as a reminder from home.  Most of these postcards do not have stamps or messages on the back of them, suggesting that some soldiers kept them for themselves as souvenirs of their time abroad.

Handkerchiefs.

TWCMS_H21246-a

TWCMS : H21246

TWCMS_H4707b

TWCMS : H4707

TWCMS_D384b

TWCMS : D384

TWCMS_D385-a

TWCMS : D385

TWCMS_H4706b

TWCMS : H4706

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TWCMS_2008_2107c

TWCMS : 2008.2107

TWCMS_D386c

TWCMS : D386

All of these handkerchiefs are in very good condition, showing that they were clearly treasured by their owners.

Handkerchief Sachets.

TWCMS_D372b

TWCMS : D372

TWCMS_J9826b

TWCMS : J9826

TWCMS_J9827b

TWCMS : J9827

If, like me, you had never heard of handkerchief sachets before, they are a padded rectangle piece of material that would have folded into three and used to keep special handkerchiefs safe.  These three have been especially embroidered as souvenirs from the First World War.

And one more.

G4317

TWCMS : G4317

This lovely object doesn’t fit into any category and shows that individuals used their own imagination and creativity to celebrate and commemorate peace.  In case you can’t read the writing (and you’re not alone!), it says ‘France Albania Italy.  Souvenir of Egypt.  To my Dear Father and Mother 1919’.  The rectangle in the middle we think would have contained a picture of whoever made this lovely souvenir, a soldier probably.

Top Ten Hats: Part Two

In this part we would like to introduce five more of the top ten hats.

In the collection there are 35 bonnets, nine of which are mourning bonnets. This one dates back to 1890 and is a fine example with a great deal of details. It is a wired crinoline braid with an upstanding brim, which is edged with velvet trimmed with sequins, orange silk flowers and silk net ruffles. Ostrich feather has been used to decorate the left side.

Mourning clothing is typically black and purple in this period, with black becoming more popular when Queen Victoria started to wear black following the death of her husband Prince Albert in 1861. Prior to this purple was the mourning colour of choice for most people. By around 1890 bonnets were less fashionable and had begun to be mainly worn by older women.

TWCMS : H6253

TWCMS : H6253

 

Weddings are an important moment for most people. Cream bonnets had been widely used by brides. This example from the is a cream handmade bonnet in the style of a baby’s hat made to match a wedding dress. It was worn by Mrs. Andrews at Hatfield college chapel, Durham in 1969. Fortunately, Discovery has the wedding bonnet, dress and pictures of the wedding day in the collection.

TWCMS : 2011.922.2

TWCMS : 2011.922.2

1-11_922a

TWCMS : 2011.922.1

 

These three hats are the smallest ones in the collection. They are in fact samples of hats made by a milliner, and that is why they appear to be tiny. The height of their crowns is around 5 to 6 cm and the width of the brims is between 1.5 and 3 cm. All of them came from the same era, between 1920 and 1924. Various materials have been used to make the hats. The main fabric is different coloured silk. In addition, gauze, aigrette, velvet and straw are used for decoration.

These hats have been made by a milliner, or hat maker, to show the skills they have in making hats.

The term milliner derives from the old English word milener meaning an inhabitant of Milan. This is due to the fact that in the 1700s large quantities of high quality straw hats were produced in Milan, earning itself a reputation for high fashion.

In fact, this green one has the use of straw for the basic structure of the hat covered by green and bronze fabric.

TWCMS : H6266

TWCMS : H6266

The purple hat is a silk hat with a deep crown and deep upturned brim topstitched round the edge. The upturned brim with the pattern of diagonal lines brightens the design of the hat and so do the peach and mauve artificial flower bunch.

TWCMS : H6267

TWCMS : H6267

The black hat is in silk velvet with mock turned-up brim. It was decorated with light and dark blue aigrette. The use of the feathers creates a focal feature to the hat, adding a touch of glamour to the garment.

TWCMS : H6268

TWCMS : H6268

 

This is the largest hat in the collection, whose height of the crown is 20.4 cm and width of the brim is around 19 cm. It is a large sun hat of navy blue straw with a high cone-shaped crown and wide curved brim. It was decorated with a fake butterfly in white, navy blue and red straw. It was made in Italy and dates from 1958 to 1963.

The fashion of large goes back to the 1780s. During the period all hats were extremely large and from about 1783 were worn either straight on the head or at different angles. However, the enormous hats of the late Edwardian era reached their maximum width in 1911. Afterwards styles became smaller, with large crowns fitting lower on the head and small or medium brims.

TWCMS : R1725

TWCMS : R1725

 

Half hats became popular in the post-war period, particularly in the 1950s. This type of hat was designed for both day and evening wear. Sometimes it involves details such as sequins and veils. The specific style was also popular among brides.

This is the only half hat in the collection. It is a woman’s half hat with a bow set on the front of the garment.

TWCMS : J4177.1

TWCMS : J4177.1

Hat pins are usually applied in order to keep this type of headgear in place

TWCMS : 2006.7174.1-3

 

Classic men’s hats consist of top hats, bowlers, fedoras, trilbies, homburgs and various other styles. They have usually been made of animal materials in order to keep warm and protect them from rain and wind. On the contrary, panamas were designed to deal with summertime in the early nineteenth century. In general, panamas are made of lightweight materials such as straw.

There are four panamas in the collection. Dating from 1930 to 1939, this one was made of natural straw with flattish crown and wide floppy brim. It was lined with white silk and its brim was edged with brown straw. The soft texture makes it convenient to carry while travelling.

TWCMS : H8710

TWCMS : H8710

 

If you would like to view more of the hat collection online, go to the online system and we would love to hear your favourite hats.

First World War stories: A Headmaster’s view of the War part 2

In an earlier blog I looked at the first two months of the First World War through the eyes of Alfred Grundy, Headmaster of Whitburn Junior Mixed School. Grundy’s weekly entries in the School log book give us a fascinating insight into how the War was seen at home and I thought it would be interesting to share some more of his thoughts.

Grundy was clearly frustrated by a lack of official information about the War. He noted on 16 October 1914 that “The War is going on and we in England know little news. The last dispatch made public was from Sir John French dated Sept 7”. The headmaster also refers to the propaganda battle taking place between Britain and Germany.

“The Gigantic battle is still being waged in N.W. France. The Germans have been reinforced by 600,000 men many of them veterans, others lads 16 or 18. They claim during the week-end to have driven back the Franco, British & Belgian Army at one point as much as 2 kilometres but the Allies claim an equal withdrawal of the enemy on another part. The German Emperor says “To Calais at any price” his malice being evident” (entry for 24 October 1914).

Whitburn School log book entry, 24 October 1914 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

Whitburn School log book entry, 24 October 1914 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

Grundy’s sense of anger towards the enemy really comes across in his entry for 2 November 1914.

“During the week-end Turkey has thrown in her lot with Germany. Bought with German Gold, her little fleet manned by German officers, doubtless believing the never ending line of false news disseminated by Germany she bombarded several innocent villages without War being declared. When the war is over there will be no Turkey in Europe”.

Whitburn School log book entry, 2 November 1914 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

Whitburn School log book entry, 2 November 1914 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

The log book also gives us a glimpse of life at home, where there was real fear of an imminent attack or invasion.

“The soldiers billeted in Whitburn and the neighbourhood have been on the alert during the last week. No man was allowed away from his billet on several nights and on one day the trenches were manned from before daylight till dark at night” (12 November 1914).

On 18 November Grundy received news that a contingent of soldiers from the 4th Battalion of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders were to arrive and occupy the school. As a result children who usually attended Whitburn Junior Mixed School had to travel to Cleadon School where they were taught each morning from 9 until 12. A sense of fear and anticipation must have grown as preparations were made to defend the coastline.

“The Highlanders are making trenches and covers, barbed-wire entanglements are fixed on the coast from Rackley Way to the end of the Promenade at Roker. 4.7 and 6 inch guns, with machine guns in between are fixed at intervals from the Bents to Sea Lane, boats have been sunk at the North and South entrances of the Wear and Whitburn inhabitants are not allowed to walk along the coast to Roker without a pass, and there are 30,000 soldiers in Sunderland and the neighbourhood. The High Tides were supposed to present an opportunity for a German Raid, with flat-bottomed boats and the Trenches were occupied night and day, the General Staff under General Pink ordering and controlling and commandeering everything” (23 November 1914).

 

Whitburn School log book entry, 23 November 1914 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

Whitburn School log book entry, 23 November 1914 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

When the raids did come the following month, they occurred further down the coast with tragic consequences.

“This morning some of the German fast cruisers have bombarded Hartlepool, Whitby and Scarborough. More than a hundred lives have been lost, many of them being children and women, and as usual the churches have suffered. Whitby Abbey and one of the Hartlepool Churches suffering severely. The coast was partly guarded by patrol destroyers, but they were slow and their guns were too light to do any damage to the enemy.

There has been great indignation all over the world at the contravention of the Hague Rules, but the country soon subsided into the ‘Business as usual’ policy and now it is scarcely mentioned” (16 December 1914).

 

Whitburn School log book entry, 16 December 1914 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

Whitburn School log book entry, 16 December 1914 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

By the start of 1915 the log book rarely refers to school events. Even when Grundy is writing about the weather at home, his mind wanders back to the conflict across the Channel. On 18 January 1915 he writes “Very bad weather. Bad for the children travelling to Cleadon and worse for the troops in the trenches in Flanders”. He strikes a defiant note in his weekly entry on 15 February, writing:

“… the Germans are feeling the grip of the British Iron clads so terribly that they have issued a warning note to all powers whether belligerent or neutral that after February 18th, any ship found in British water whether neutral or otherwise will be unconditionally sent to the bottom without search and without any attempt to save life. As Germany’s fleet is locked up and as she has only 25 submarines all told, the Blockade of Britain, as it is called is only a paper one. Nevertheless we must be prepared to endure some shocks”.

 

Whitburn School log book entry, 15 February 1915 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

Whitburn School log book entry, 15 February 1915 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

The War came closer to Whitburn in April with a series of air-raids. Grundy notes in his entry for 15 April 1915:

“Last night the Tyne was visited by Aeroplanes or Zeppelins. It was intensely dark about 8.30 when the first sounds of the exploding bombs were heard on the Tyneside. Wallsend and Newcastle would seem to be the principal places of attack so far as can be learned this morning, but the news, considering the nearness of the raid, is very scanty, one paper stating that no damage was done. Altogether the report says 13 bombs were dropped in Wallsend, Jarrow, Newcastle and Chollerford. The direction of the Airship as it came from Hebburn and Wallsend shows that it must have passed over the north part of the parish”.

Grundy personally witnessed another Zeppelin raid two months later.

“During the week-end a Zeppelin has visited our District. It was visible off Flamborough at 8.30 … It passed over Bridgett’s in Moor Lane at 10, proceeded to Jarrow, dropped bombs on the Jarrow shipyard (Palmers) killing 15 and injuring 15. It then turned as if coming towards Sunderland when the guns on Cleadon Hill opened fire and got so near that it put on speed and put off seaward followed by two British Aeroplanes. I saw the explosion of the two bombs on Jarrow and also the firing of the guns on Cleadon, and when it hurriedly sheared off I saw the lights as it passed off to the North Sea” (21 June 1915).

 

Whitburn School log book entry, 21 June 1915 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

Whitburn School log book entry, 21 June 1915 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

On 15 February 1915, when writing about the German u-boat threat, Grundy had written that “… we must be prepared to endure some shocks”. Tragically he was proved right just three months later. On 3 May 1915 he noted:

“The Lusitania on the point of sailing from New York was warned that the Germans would attempt to destroy her and that anyone going on board did so at the risk of his or her life. No notice was taken and every single passenger decided to make the journey”.

A week later on 10 May Grundy recorded the tragic news of the sinking of that great Cunard ocean liner.

“That which was threatened has happened. On Friday afternoon 2.33 the Lusitania being about 8 miles from the Irish Coast, Kinsale Head, steaming about 15 knots, a good watch being set, a cry was made that a torpedo was coming. That one missed but soon after another came catching the great liner amid ships, killing over 100, and in less than 30 minutes the vessel sunk, some six hundred being saved and nearly 1500 drowned, 30 of whom were babies”.

Whitburn School log book entry, 10 May 1915 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

Whitburn School log book entry, 10 May 1915 (TWAM ref. E.WHB2/2/3)

The numbers quoted by Grundy don’t stand up to later analysis (the number of people drowned was nearer 1,200) but that doesn’t detract in any way from the tragedy or the magnitude of the event. The loss of so many civilian lives (including over a hundred Americans) was to prove significant in gradually changing US opinion about joining the War.

The school log book gives us a fascinating insight into attitudes, perceptions and events during the first year of the War. I hope to bring you some more entries from it in due course but if you can’t wait and would like to take a look at the original log book then why not visit our public searchroom. Opening times and our location can be found on our website.

Visit the Wor Life website for more about our events and exhibitions relating to the First World War.

 

 

‘Brig Aground at Marsden Bay’ and goodbye…

For those who haven’t read my previous blogs, I completed a work placement at South Shields as part of my Master’s degree in Art Museum and Gallery Studies at Newcastle University. During my placement, using the museum’s art collection I curated a number of exhibitions, one of which was ‘Watercolour Treasures’. Almost a year on from developing the exhibition, I recently began volunteering at South Shield’s to assist Adam Bell with some of the last final touches.  ‘Watercolour Treasures’ has now been up for a few weeks at South Shields Museum & Art Gallery, and I am really happy with how it has turned out! The exhibition looks great, and this has been in no small part, thanks to Brian of the FOH team here, who hung the exhibition.

Today is likely to be my last day at South Shields for some time as due to other work I will no longer have the time to commit to it. For my last blog, I wanted to write a short piece about ‘Brig Aground at Marsden Rock’ which is currently on display as part of ‘Watercolour Treasures’.

Picture 025

TWCMS: G4517 from the South Shields Museum collection

Depicted in the watercolour painting is a brig which has run aground on the sands of Marsden Bay. Opposite the brig, carved into the cliff face, is Marsden Grotto. It is rumoured that Jack Bates, a lead miner, used explosives from a nearby quarry in order to blow the hole larger and consequentially earned himself the nickname ‘Jack the Blaster’. Then, in order to avoid paying rent, he moved into the cave with his wife.

Coming from an arts background, I have been taught to appreciate art from a purely visual or conceptual standpoint (and to do so whilst stroking my beard). If there is one thing that I will take away with me from my time here at South Shields, I want it to be the fun that I have had in discovering and sharing the stories contained in artworks such as this one.

Top Ten Bags : Part Two

This blog concludes the top ten bags list, here are the final five.

The first is one of the smallest bags that we came across and dates to around 1900. It is made of a very fine silver chain and has a fabric lining. It also features a simple twist clasp.

Optimized-TWCMS_J10609

TWCMS : J10609

The next bag is also made from silver but has a solid body which has been engraved. This particular bag belonged to the wife of a coroner in Sunderland in 1890-1892.

TWCMS : 2006.565

TWCMS : 2006.565

Both of these bags have an interesting feature, a circular hoop at the top of the chain. At first we thought were that they were delicately carried by placing one’s finger in the hoop. However after some research we found out that they would have been carried on a hook attached to a belt, known as a Chatelaine. These were often worn by women who were in charge of the household attaching things like keys and purses to them. They became very fashionable and highly decorated, it was symbolic of the power a woman had as head of the house.

TWCMS : 1999.1989

TWCMS : 1999.1989

In the collection here at Discovery there is only one example of a Chatelaine which is decorated with an owl motif. At the bottom of each chain is a hook to attach objects to, in many ways the Chatelaine is an alternative to the bag.

In the eighteenth century one of the most popular things for a young man to do was to embark on a tour of Europe, known as the ‘Grand Tour’. They would travel visiting many ancient sites from the classical world, and was seen as a way for a respectable gentleman to complete his education. With all this travelling the elite required a way to carry their belongings. In this period travel cases became immensely popular, and owning one was a way to show others that you are a well-traveled individual. Many of the earlier travel cases were very ornate with the exterior being just as important as the interior.

TWCMS : J14497

TWCMS : J14497

Into the Victorian era the excessive nature of these boxes was viewed negatively and they began to be known as vanity cases. Men’s cases become less decorated and more practical, this bag is an example of this. It dates to around c1900 and its exterior is a plain brown leather, inside it features items like a snuffbox, toothbrush tweezers and other grooming utensils.

TWCMS : J14491

TWCMS : J14491

TWCMS : J14497

TWCMS : J14497

The next case dates to 1870-1899 and is woman’s travel case, it is much more decorative than its male counterpart , as well as being much smaller. This particular case has a set of tweezers and a manicure tool inside, as well as a small mirror on the inside lid, and it would barely fit much else in! Its red plush velvet exterior, quilted interior and gilded fittings scream luxury. It certainly seems that this has been designed for form rather than function.

TWCMS : J14472

TWCMS : J14472

TWCMS : J14472

TWCMS : J14472

 

The final bag of this blog is one of my personal favourites due to its hidden secret. It appears a relatively simple bag. It is made from raw black silk and has a faux-ivory frame, dating to the nineteenth century. The lid is beautifully decorated with ornate carving, parts of which have been coloured greens and reds.

TWCMS : J14474

TWCMS : J14474

Its unusual feature is what is concealed within the lid. In the lid is a hidden compartment with a mirror and two pots of cosmetic powder. This is not the only item in the collection to features hidden pot of make-up, Emma Davidson’s post on fans also includes a fan made by Rimmel.

TWCMS : J14474

TWCMS : J14474


If you want to take a look at all the bags in the collection try the online search and see what you can discover. The Discovery also run tours of the costume store, so keep a look for these here.