Top Ten Hats: Part One

Functional or fashionable?  The design of hats interests people but what are hats for?

Working on several projects in the costume and textiles store at Discovery for the past eight weeks, Hannah Keen and I have tried to figure out the link between the collections and their hidden stories, particularly the hats and bags collections. Starting from checking their documentation records, we have taken out the well-wrapped objects from their dedicated boxes and photographed them. Then the photos of the objects have been uploaded to the digital collections database of Tyne and Wear Archives and Museums in order to share the photographs with the public.

There are 487 hats in the collection, which date from the early seventeenth century to the present day. Working with the various hats has certainly sparked our imagination. By looking at the details of the hats, we have begun to understand more about the history: Why, or how the hats were made? Each of the questions made us think about the function and fashion of hats. It has been an interesting process and therefore I would like to introduce our top ten hats in the Discovery collection.

The first one caught our attention by its unique shape, which is a tall triangular cone. In fact it is one of the oldest hats in the collection dating from 1700 to 1799. It has blue green thread with gold sequins stitched onto the front forming a leaf pattern in gold thread. It could be an ecclesiastical hat. However, we have not found information about it. Does anyone have any ideas?

TWCMS : J14344

TWCMS : J14344

TWCMS : J14344

TWCMS : J14344

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This hat is a tricorne, and the name originates from the design of this type of hats, simply that it has three-corners.  The tricorne is certainly one of the symbols of the eighteenth century and this general style was referred to as cocked hats. Due to its popularity, tricornes varied greatly in fabric and size. Typically, tricornes were made from material such as beaver-hair felt and wool felt. There are four tricornes in the collection. This one is the oldest tricorne, which dates from 1780 to 1790. It was made from silk velvet and feathery fabric in France. Tricornes were originally designed as a part of military uniform, they became more widely worn by males among the upper and middling classes.

TWCMS : H8732

TWCMS : H8732

The time of tricorne ended around 1789 when they were supplanted by bicorne (a two-cornered hat) just after the French Revolution. In the collection, there are 13 bicornes.

TWCMS : E4116

TWCMS : E4116

Straw hats were very common for women of all social classes in the nineteenth century. Around 1810 straw hats came into fashion, followed by cheaper alternatives made of cardboard. By 1830 the brim of bonnets got larger both to conceal the side of the face and to allow room for the large curls that framed the face, which was a popular choice of hairstyle at the time.

There are 35 bonnets in the collection. This one in our top ten is due to its simple design. It is the original form of bonnet. As bonnets became more popular, more decoration appeared such as coloured ribbons, flowers, patterns and many more intricate details. Bonnets were very popular and appeared in books such as Jane Austen’s. She depicts quite a few scenarios that girls pick their favourite ribbons for themselves or friends in order to embellish their dresses, hairstyles and bonnets.

This straw bonnet dates from 1840 to 1849. It is a plaited bonnet made from natural straw and has deep brim with elongated sides. Unfortunately now it is very fragile and coming apart in places. In terms of object-conservation, while the bonnet was unpacked, photographed and repacked, we followed the artefact-handling principles given by the conservators such as keeping steady or supporting the weight of the object very carefully in order to avoid any potential damage.

TWCMS : H12319

TWCMS : H12319

 

Top hat is one of the most recognizable objects from the nineteenth century and it is no surprise that there are 52 top hats in the collection. This example is a travel set of top hats. There are two men’s silk black top hats with a leather box in this set. Interestingly, one of them can be folded flat to fit in the top part of the box.

For the use of travelling and storage, the Collapsible Top Hat was invented. A record shows a Hatter named Thomas Francis Dollman was the inventor who designed the elastic round hat that might be made of beaver, silk or other materials in 1812.

TWCMS : H10150

TWCMS : H10150

TWCMS : H10150

TWCMS : H10150

 

This is a women’s riding hat. The design of women’s riding hats was inspired by top hats however more detailed decoration was added into women’s riding hats. This one has a brown animal fur wrap and with black net overlay around the entire hat including the brim. On the back the fabric extends to form a shape of a bow.

This hat was made by Fenwick. The label inside reads:

Mr. J J Fenwick, French Hat Salon, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.

Because Fenwick was established in 1882, this hat probably dates from 1880 to 1890. At Discovery there are a few objects from Fenwick including well-made beautiful clothing and some furniture used in the Fenwick store in Newcastle.

TWCMS : 2013.1080

TWCMS : 2013.1080

TWCMS : 2013.1080

TWCMS : 2013.1080

 

In the next part we will explore five more fabulous hats.

Top Ten Bags : Part One

For the past eight weeks Chiao-Mei Lin and I, who are both masters students at Newcastle University, have been working on a number of projects in the costume and textiles store at Discovery. For this project Mei and I have been photographing and updating the digital records for the bags in the collection.

In the collection here there are 380 bags and purses, which are all carefully wrapped up in tissue and packed in boxes. There is such a variety of bags in the collection, and unwrapping each was an unique experience.

One thing that I find most fascinating about bags is that, unlike hats, parasols and fans, they never stop being used or being in fashion.

As we got further into the project we could clearly see how the bag has evolved and changed over time.

Here are our top ten bags.

For our first bag we have chosen one of the oldest in the collection. This bag is a slight mystery as there was very little information on record about it. The bag has a Persian influence and dates to 1700-1799. For such a small, simply structured bag it has so much exquisite detail. It is beautifully decorated with coloured thread and has some Persian text on the front. We just loved the small tassels that hang off the bottom half of the bag. This style of bag is flat and has a short handle, and was likely worn (likely on a belt) to keep the bag as close to the owner as possible to avoid any theft.

TWCMS : J6692

TWCMS : J6692

The use of bags predominantly started off with men, using bags to carry small valuable items, and were often made from leather. For a long time bags were worn on a belt rather than being carried on a shoulder or by hand. By the 17th century many men carried larger bags to transport letters whereas women carried small decorative pouches filled with scented flowers such as lavender to mask both their own personal hygiene and that of those around them!

While going through the collection we found some bags that we at first mistook for peg bags, after doing some research we began to understand their function. In the eighteenth century women’s dresses became very large, consisting of many layers of skirts.  As these skirts rarely had pockets sewn into them, they start to wear bags tied around their waist under the layers of skirt. These bags essentially functioned as a pocket. Women could keep valuables hidden under several layers of skirts, petticoats and underskirts.

TWCMS : D272

TWCMS : D272

This example has some decorative trim and multiple sections.  The trend for this style of bag slows down by 1860s. This is because it became more fashionable for skirts to be slimmer and not as full, and the pockets would have ruined the silhouette of the dress. After this period much more ornate bags become popular and this is when bags really take off as major accessory.

One type of purse that we came across many times was the ‘miser’ purse, so called because it was very difficult to get any coins out. This type of purse reached its peak popularity in the Victorian era. There are a large number of these oddly shaped purses in the collection, most of which are decorated with beading. Typically one side of the ‘miser’ purse is much rounder than the other which tends to be squarer, this is so different coins can be stored in either side.

This ‘miser’ purse in the collection it is so beautifully decorated, with floral patterns on either end.

TWCMS : J14619

TWCMS : J14619

The majority of the bags in the collection were for women,we only found one or two that were for men. This bag is a black satin Asian purse that has some embroidered decoration on either side, it has been dated to 1840-1860. The way that this purse functions is by folding it over a belt.

TWCMS : J14637

TWCMS : J14637

For many of the bags there is little information of how people came to own them or what that person was like, so it is always exciting to find an object that has a story to tell. This particular belt has a hand-written letter in which the owner describes how he came to possess it.

TWCMS : J14637

TWCMS : J14637

‘This wallet was taken from the corpse of a Chinese mandarin during the occupation of [?] 24/25th Aug 1860 by Corporal [?] Jones of the 44th Regiment & given by him to me this 31st May 1899. [signed] John M Noble
After the action the 44th in advancing on the city had to pass over a number of the enemy’s dead. Corporal Jones marching on the right flank of his company passed within reach of  the dead mandarin who, in his death struggle had opened his outer garment & gripped his belt exposing his wallet, on the spur of the moment Jones pulled it from under the belt while passing, it contained opium & a few things of value.’

One of the most popular style of bags by far in the collection is the frame bag. These have a hard frame made from various materials including tortoise shell and enamel, with a soft fabric body. These became a popular choice because they could be made at home. Some of these feature beautiful embroidery and beading. Women’s education in the past had a large emphasis on needlework, the collection here has many examples of such work. These bags were often used as a means to display a woman’s talents for needlework and show off their wifely skills.

TWCMS J6779

TWCMS J6779

We have chosen the above bag because it has some lovely embroidery in a tapestry style and a metal frame. It dates to 1870-1890 and is from France. The image is a typical outdoor scene with the figures lounging casually in the centre.


In the second part to this blog we shall conclude the top ten which includes some marvelous metalwork and a bag with a hidden secret.

‘Watercolour Treasures’ at South Shields Museum and Art Gallery

Hi, it has been a while since I have written one of these blog posts. Back in spring last year I was on a work placement, working alongside staff at South Shields Museum and Art Gallery and the Discovery Museum, as part of my studies at Newcastle University. Since completing the eight-weeks of the placement, I finished my master’s degree in Art Museum and Gallery Studies and got a job at The Biscuit Factory gallery in Newcastle, where I still currently work as a curatorial assistant.

Over the couple of months, I have been volunteering one day per week here at South Shields Museum, in order to complete an exhibition that I began to curate as part of my work placement. ‘Watercolour Treasures’ is currently open, where it is on display across the museums’ Stairwell and First Floor Corridor Galleries. Over 20 works from South Shields’ collection will be featured. Through the works that have I selected for the exhibition I have aimed to try and show some of the history of South Shields. For example, in ‘Market Place after the Blitz’ by Albert Ernest Black we are shown the wreckage caused by the incendiary bomb which fell onto a gasometer in 1941.

G5791.600x600

TWCMS : G5791 from the South Shields Museum & Art Gallery collection

Many of the art works, including this one…

Picture 028

TWCMS: G4522 from the South Shields Museum & Art Gallery collection

…act as records which map the change from sail to steam-powered ships, over the 1800s. In the image above, the artist has included three different types of ship: sailing collier, paddle steamer, and screw propeller steamship.

It has been fantastic seeing this exhibition through to completion,  from conception to tweaking the final touches. I would like to thank Adam Bell for offering me guidance, creative freedom, and the opportunity to come back to see ‘Watercolour Treasures’ through to completion.

 

Get set for Summer!

50years 4

After a quiet couple of months – FLAG (Friends of the Laing Art Gallery) is getting set for a sizzling summer (let’s hope the weather follows suit!).

The main event is, of course, our Gala Lunch celebrating our 50th Anniversary, to be held on 20th September at the Assembly Rooms – tickets are selling fast so contact us to make sure you are involved in this special day.

Before that we have our AGM on 23rd June and in July we are looking forward to our trip down the Tyne in the company of the celebrated writer Michael Chaplin. We also have a visit to Blackwell, The Arts and Craft House in Windermere – this summer it hosts an exhibition of works by Evelyn De Morgan. This exhibition focuses on her pacifism and reaction to both the Boer War and World War 1.

Join us on our trip to Whitby in August – where we will visit the Captain Cook Museum. The museum’s rich collection celebrates Cook’s achievements and the work of those who sailed with him. On loan to the museum is a very special painting. The Kongouro from New Holland by George Stubbs. Depicting a kangaroo, this is one of only two paintings Stubbs did not draw from a live subject.

In September Flag are ‘taking the train’ with a visit to Pickering and travelling from Grosmont to Pickering on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway and in October we are visiting Abbot Hall in Kendal – where there is an exhibition of Canaletto’s Architecture – Celebrating Georgian Britain. If you are in the Gallery – stop at the FLAG Welcome desk and pick up a copy of our light hearted quiz – only £1 – and you have a chance to win an Eldon Square voucher!

We have a special issue of Friends News, our quarterly newsletter – looking back at the work and the people involved who have all made such a significant contribution to the Gallery and celebrating our golden anniversary.

Soon we say farewell to our very popular Conscience and Conflict exhibition (if you haven’t seen it – you still have a few days left – but hurry – time is running out!)

In June we will be welcoming Picture This – Children’s Illustrated Classics – starting on the 20th and running through to 27th September. Featured artists include Quentin Blake, Michael Foreman Peggy Fortnum and Lauren Child. An interesting day out for the whole family during the school holidays.

So a busy few months in store. Contact us for more information on the summer trips and we hope you will join us in celebrating our special anniversary year.

You can contact us on 0191 261 0962, e-mail us art@flag.fslife.co.uk or pop in and see us, there’s usually someone in the office on Tuesday and Wednesday’s. You can also print out an application form here.

Half Hung or Half Baked?

Lambert's Leap British LibraryAmongst the many dark and mysterious secrets of Newcastle’s past, there is one that I have always found particularly fascinating; The Legend of ‘Half-Hung’ MacDonald. The short summary of the story is that Owen MacDonald was a soldier, executed on the Town Moor for a murder committed at a pub on Newcastle’s Bigg Market, in 1752. As part of his sentence he was to be dissected, after execution, by the Surgeons at Surgeons Hall  (a common practice after 1752, see previous blog for more info). So far, so normal! However, in an entry in Sykes Local Records from 1833 an interesting footnote appears when describing the sorry episode.

“It was said that after the body was taken to the Surgeons’ Hall, and placed ready for dissection, that the surgeons were called to attend a case at the Infirmary, who, on their return, found Macdonald so far recovered as to be sitting up; he immediately begged for mercy, but a young surgeon not wishing to be disappointed of the dissection, seized a wooden mall with which he deprived him of life. It was further reported, as the just vengeance of God, that this young man was soon after killed in the stable by his own horse. They used to shew (sic) a mall at the Surgeons’ Hall as the identical one used by the surgeon.”[1]

The story is indeed a remarkable one if it is true, but the origins were clearly shaky even at the time of Sykes’ recording of it, noting as he did, that

“I have thrown this note together from the report current some years ago, but which is now fast dying away.”[2]

Irrespective of the relative truth of the tale, from henceforth the legend was created and spread far and wide, the extent to which the story became a popularised ‘truth’ can be instanced in its appearance in a Californian newspaper, The Golden Era, in 1866, replete with numerous factual inaccuracies and literary flourishes, such as the date of the execution being listed as 1762, a decade after it happened![3] Indeed the legend still appears on many a modern article on death, resurrection or burial (should you be searching for these things on Google!) and is still one of the most titillating stories on the many ghost or murder walks and tours that take place in Newcastle. But was it true? I wanted to see if I could make any sense of the story by using the Tyne and Wear archives.

My first stop was the Barber Surgeons records, (or to give them their fantastic full title, the Newcastle upon Tyne Company of Barber Surgeons, Wax and Tallow Chandlers and Periwig Makers). There is no record of the incident recorded, indeed relatively few notes exist about dissections of the executed. Having said that, you would hardly expect them to have recorded an incident of malpractice like that. A newspaper report gives us a fuller insight.

“His body was carried to the Surgeons Hall, and there dissected and anatomized according to his sentence.”[4]

Two weeks later the same newspaper carried a detailed report of all the elements of the dissection (being as it was an event open to the public) and no mention is made of any foul play. So, perhaps the story ends there? Well, not satisfied I decided to use the newspapers to trace another part of Sykes’ initial entry. Namely, the mysterious death of the Surgeon who apparently killed MacDonald on the dissecting table.

A search of British Periodicals led to the following entry,

“The Surgeons who lectured on MacDonald’s body, after dissection, were Messrs. Hallewell, Stodart, Greenwell and Lambert. The Latter, we believe, was the father of the young gentleman who, seven years after the date of these transactions met with the extraordinary accident in Sandyford Lane (as recorded in the Monthly Chronicle for March 1887, which has ever since given to the scene of it the name of Lambert’s Leap.”[5]

Now, Lambert’s Leap, for those who don’t know (don’t worry, I didn’t – despite walking past it, unknowingly, hundreds of times) is still remembered via a coping stone in a wall behind a bus stop on Sandyford Lane. In the mid c18th it was the site of “narrow bridge that crossed the deep wooded Sandyford Dene, a tributary of the Ouse Burn further east.”[6] The stone was placed in the wall to commemorate another remarkable incident in 1759, reported at the time, in the Newcastle Courant.

“On Friday the last instant, as Mr Cuthbert Lambert (youngest Son of an eminent Physician of that Name in this Town) was riding along Sandifordstone-lane, his mare took Fright, and running to the Bridge, leap’d on the Battlement, three feet and a Half high, and from thence made a spring to one side of the Burn below, which measures 45 feet, and is 36 Feet perpendicular; what is most astonishing, and indeed remarkably providential, the young Gentleman kept close to his seat from the Top to the Bottom, and escaped with his life: He is now greatly recovered from the Hurt received by so violent a shock, and in a very promising way to do well. The mare died soon after.”[7]

Modern Day Lambert’s Leap – courtesy of http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3620179

Modern Day Lambert’s Leap – courtesy of http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3620179

Later reports suggested that Lambert’s survival was even more providential, some claiming that he survived by hanging from the branches of an old ash tree. This story became the stuff of legend and was memorialised in an aquatint in 1786, held in the British Library. There was even a pub named after it just near the site, which has since shut down.

"Lambert's Leap"  Engraver: Dawne, P Medium: Aquatint Date: 1786 Couretsy of British Library http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/kinggeorge/l/003ktop00000032u057g0000.html

“Lambert’s Leap”
Engraver: Dawne, P
Medium: Aquatint
Date: 1786
Couretsy of British Library
http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/kinggeorge/l/003ktop00000032u057g0000.html

The most important two facts for my queries though, were that Cuthbert Lambert was a Customs Officer, not a Surgeon, and that he didn’t die in the accident, indeed he miraculously survived. So, he couldn’t have presided over a dissection and any idea that his death was some sort of karmic retribution can be dismissed by his remarkable recovery. One other possibility is a bizarre repeat of history almost 70 years after.

“About eleven o’clock on the forenoon, as Mr. John Nicholson, son of Mr. John Nicholson, of Newcastle, and pupil of Mr. Henzell, surgeon, was riding along Sandyford-lane, near Newcastle, his horse ran away, and in making the turn at Sandyford-bridge, the animal struck the battlement and fell, but it immediately rose and leaped from the bridge into the rocky channel below, being a depth of 36 feet perpendicular. The unfortunate young man was so dreadfully bruised and injured, that he lingered in an insensible state until seven o’clock in the evening, when he expired.”[8]

The similarities are remarkable, the report covering it said as much, stating that

 “The only difference is, that Mr. Lambert survived and his horse was killed, but in this instance the horse was so little injured, that a person rode it into town for assistance.” [9]

However tragic, Nicholson could not be the surgeon in Sykes Records as he would not have been alive at the time of MacDonald’s dissection and, as our earlier sources show, his father and his Surgeon teacher, Mr Henzell, were not recorded as present either.

So, where does this leave “Half-Hung” MacDonald and the relative truth of Sykes’ “thrown together” note that was “fast fading away” at the time of writing. My estimation is that, like many popular tales or myths, it is the conglomeration of numerous incidents fuelled by the very real contemporary fear of Surgeons and the punishment of dissection. A punishment that historian Ruth Richardson famously said was often more greatly feared than execution itself. What shouldn’t be forgotten in any attempts to disprove this legend is that, however true, it would have been widely believed by the people of the day.

NOTES:

[1] John Sykes, Local Records; Or, Historical Register of Remarkable Events: Which Have Occurred in Northumberland and Durham, Newcastle upon Tyne, and Berwick upon Tweed, from the Earliest Period of Authentic Record, to the Present Time; with Biographical Notices of Deceased Persons of Talent, Eccentricity, and Longevity (J. Sykes, 1833), 202.

[2]  John Sykes, Local Records; Or, Historical Register of Remarkable Events: Which Have Occurred in Northumberland and Durham, Newcastle upon Tyne, and Berwick upon Tweed, from the Earliest Period of Authentic Record, to the Present Time; with Biographical Notices of Deceased Persons of Talent, Eccentricity, and Longevity (J. Sykes, 1833), 202.

[3] The Golden Era May 20th 1866 p.1 https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2461&dat=18660520&id=nrEyAAAAIBAJ&sjid=hAAGAAAAIBAJ&pg=6829,2107635&hl=en

[4] Newcastle Courant 30th September 1752 p.3

[5] “Half-Hanged Macdonald.,” Monthly Chronicle of North-Country Lore and Legend 1, no. 7 (September 1887): 331.

[6] http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3620179

[7] Newcastle Courant – Saturday 29 September 1759 p.3

[8] John Sykes and John Sykes (of Newcastle-upon-Tyne.), Local Records (Printed for and sold by J.Sykes, 1833), 211. https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=eqQDAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&output=reader&hl=en&pg=GBS.PA212

[9] Ibid