Star of the show

A book from the Great North Museum: Hancock Library is going to be the star of an exhibition at the Henry Moore Institute in Leeds this year.

The book which is part of the Library of the Natural History Society of Northumbria  is by D’Arcy Wentwork Thompson and is titled “On Growth and Form”. It is a first edition and was published  in 1917.  It is a poetic and mathematical study of scale, gravity, order and process which lodged itself within the conciousness of 20th Century sculpture.  Henry Moore was introduced to the book both while studying in Leeds in 1919 and again in the 1930’s and it influenced his work. Richard Hamilton who studied the work as a student in Newcastle took the title “On Growth and Form”for his 1951 landmark exhibition at the Institute of Contemporary Arts in London.   

The exhibition will run from 14 May till 17 August and is titled “D’Arcy Thompson’s On Growth and Form”.   The copy of the book will be on display alongside four drawings by Henry Moore that are known as the “Transformation” drawings that reflect the influence of Thompson on Moore’s artistic practice.

 

 

 

The Berengaria visits the River Tyne

Over the past couple of months, work has been progressing steadily on the ‘Workshop of the World’ project. I’ve been working through the large quantity of unlisted material in the Vickers Armstrong collection and there have been lots of interesting finds. Perhaps the most unexpected was a series of four photographs of the ‘Berengaria’, one of the greatest passenger liners of her day.

'Berengaria' under tow on the River Tyne, c1921 (TWAM ref. 1027)

She was launched in Hamburg in May 1912 under the name ‘Imperator’ and at that time was the largest ship in the world. The vessel spent the First World War moored at Hamburg but soon afterwards was handed over to the United States Shipping Board to transport American troops back home.  She then passed to the British authorities as part of the war reparations for losses suffered during the War. ‘Imperator’ was bought by the Cunard Line in 1919 and became the firm’s flagship, joining other great vessels of the age ‘Mauretania’ and ‘Aquitania’ on the trans-Atlantic crossing from Southampton to New York.

Cunard soon renamed her ‘Berengaria’ and in 1921 she was sent with ‘Aquitania’ to the Walker naval yard of Armstrong Whitworth, where both were converted from coal to oil burning engines and various minor repairs were carried out.  The photographs in the Vickers Armstrong collection must date from this conversion and include a view of the vessel passing the shipyard of Swan Hunter & Wigham Richardson.

'Berengaria' passing the Neptune Yard of Swan Hunter & Wigham Richardson, c1921 (TWAM ref. 1027)

There’s also an interesting local connection to the ‘Berengaria’s new oil burning system, which was invented by the marine engineer, William Albert White. White was born in 1897 in Sunderland and studied at South Shields Marine School before serving his apprenticeship with the Middle Docks & Engineering Co. Ltd. He obtained his chief engineer’s ticket and then found employment with the Parsons Marine Steam Turbine Co. Ltd at Wallsend, where he was actively involved in the development of the steam turbine. Indeed he served as chief engineer on the SS ‘Turbinia’ when she crossed the Atlantic in 1904. That vessel was built by Hawthorn Leslie and shouldn’t be confused with its illustrious namesake, now on display in theDiscoveryMuseum.

William Albert White in front of 'Turbinia', early 20th Century (TWAM ref. DX1561/4/1)

White stayed in America for a number of years before returning to the United Kingdom in 1916 with his family. He made several highly successful inventions, most notably the White Low-Pressure Oil-Burning Engine, which was fitted in ‘Berengaria’. His firm, the White Patent Oil Burning Co. Ltd, established an engine works at Gateshead in 1920. The firm relocated soon after to South Shields before finally settling at Hebburn in 1923.

After the conversion ‘Berengaria’ went on to have a fine career until a fire on board in March 1938 led to the discovery of defective wiring. Her owners took the decision to dispose of her and she returned once more to the River Tyne to be broken up at Jarrow. The Second World War intervened and her dismantling was not completed until after the War in Rosyth. This was a sad end but the discovery of these photographs in the Vickers Armstrong collection is a happy reminder of a great ship in her pomp.

'Berengaria' heading out to sea, c1921 (TWAM ref. 1027)

 

John Constable : Hampstead Heath with the House Called ‘The Salt Box’, about 1819

John Constable, Hampstead Heath with the House Called ‘The Salt Box’, © Tate, London 2013

A bright patch of colour – a man wearing a red waistcoat – pulls our eyes out to the far right of this picture, ensuring that we don’t miss the full width of this airy panorama. It shows the view from the high ground of Hampstead Heath, with London behind us. This picture is on show in the Laing’s current exhibition (ticket entry) of naturalistic landscape sketches and paintings – Sketching from Nature, selected from the Tate collection, London. The Tate collection page for this painting can be seen here.

The man in a red waistcoat seems to be tipping up a wheelbarrow. The action has angled his body towards another man, also marked out with a red waistcoat, on the other side of the pond. He’s apparently digging sand to load into a cart (pulled by donkeys, it seems, rather than horses).

John Constable, Hampstead Heath with the House Called ‘The Salt Box’ (detail), © Tate, London 2013

Sand-digging must have been a familiar sight over a lot of Hampstead Heath. As it was common land, villagers had the right to dig sand and gravel, which were variously used for building, road construction, and in glass and iron industries. Constable seems to have thought of the people and animals as a natural and characteristic part of the Heath. He and his patrons may also have seen the labourers as evidence of praise-worthy work, contributing to Britain’s progress and prosperity. However, sand digging over the next 50 years had severe consequences for the Heath. In 1871, The Illustrated London News recorded that:

The whole space on the summit of the hill…has been ruthlessly dug up for gravel and sand…leaving a dreary, desert prospect of hideous pits and shapeless heaps…Holes are scooped out close to the high road thirty feet or forty feet deep…

The Heath was taken over by the Metropolitan Board of Works, and digging banned (there are some details of the Heath’s history here and here.)

At the time of Constable’s picture, Hampstead was still a village, with the advantage of being within reasonably easy reach of the artist’s London house. It was an idyllic spot, and sand digging had not yet noticeably damaged the landscape. Constable rented a house for the summer of 1819 and again in following years, until he moved there permanently in 1827. He described the Heath’s appeal in a letter:

I am three miles from door to door – can have a message in an hour – & I can always get away from idle callers – and above all see nature – & unite a town & country life.

John Constable, Hampstead Heath with the House Called ‘The Salt Box’ (detail), © Tate, London 2013

This wider detail of the right side of the painting features Branch Hill Pond. Constable has depicted a lush green landscape beyond the Heath, creating a subtle progression to the bluish tints of the distant hills. At the bottom of the scene, there’s a narrow band of shadow created by a cloud overhead. Sun shines on the clouds from a westerly direction, and the clouds break up the light into patches on sunshine over the ground.

For Constable, the sky was a fundamentally important part of naturalistic landscape painting. In a letter to his friend Archdeacon Fisher, in 1821, Constable wrote:

That landscape painter who does not make skies a very material part of his composition neglects to avail himself of one of his greatest aids. The sky is the source of light in nature and governs everything

As Constable was living on the Heath, he was easily able to take his easel, canvas and paints outside. Though of fairly modest size, it’s still quite large for an outdoor picture. Constable’s careful observation of nature in this painting was admired by his friend and fellow artist C.R. Leslie:

Constable’s art was never more perfect…as at this period of his life…The sky is of the blue of an English summer day… The distance is of a deep blue, and the near trees and grass of the freshest green; for Constable could never consent to parch up the verdure of nature to obtain warmth. These tints are balanced by a very little warm colour… Yet I know no picture in which the mid-day heat of Midsummer is so admirably expressed; and were not the eye refreshed by the shade thrown over a great part of the foreground by some young trees, that border the road, and the cool blue of water near it, one would wish, in looking at it, for a parasol…. [It] appears to have been wholly painted in the open air…

John Constable, Hampstead Heath with the House Called ‘The Salt Box’, © Tate, London 2013

Although the scene is naturalistic, Constable has incorporated some structure. The sweeping curve of the road directs our eyes across the picture and round into the distance towards the central house. A line of dark trees leads into the picture on the left, contrasting with the brightly coloured and varied forms of the open vista on the right. The asymmetry creates energy, while the central position of the house helps stabilise the pictorial composition. The junction of the building’s red and white roofs marks a vertical line through the centre of the composition, though this isn’t very apparent because both trees and road extend beyond it. Houses with long sloping roofs, like the pale-coloured roof of this building seems to be, were known as ‘salt box’ houses because of the resemblance to the outline of an old-fashioned box for table salt.

In addition to this outstanding picture, the Laing’s current exhibition gives visitors the chance to see two more of Constable’s Hampstead scenes, including one of his fascinating cloud studies. Other pictures by Constable on display cover a range of his outdoor subjects – his father’s mill at Dedham, the coast at Brighton, a sky study made on a visit to his friend Archdeacon Fisher at Salisbury, a country village in full summer sunshine, and an evening study of lush parkland.

Naturalistic landscape sketches and paintings by JMW Turner are also on show as well as pictures by fellow artists who followed a similar path.

Here Comes the Sun – part 2

A guest post by Caroline Whitehead

Read Caroline’s first blog post about the parasol collection at Tyne & Wear Archives & Museums here.

Caring for your parasol

Parasols were fragile – the silk split quite easily due to the fact that the cover was under tension when put up. The vulnerable tip or ‘ferrule’, frequently made from ivory or bone, was easily snapped off.  So, not surprisingly, department stores offered a re-covering service for umbrellas and parasols. Women’s magazines recommended putting aside 7 shillings out of a dress allowance of £10 a year for an umbrella or having it re-covered. [3]

Parasols were kept closed with a variety of closures from metal or ivory rings, cords, tassels and eventually the kind of band and button or press-stud that we see on umbrellas today.

The tassel or cord was wound round the parasol and slotted into a metal catch. TWCMS:J154

The tassel or cord was wound round the parasol and slotted into a metal catch. TWCMS:J154

Fancy goods

The collection has some lovely extravagant parasols trimmed with lace and chiffon, with fancy handles from carved ivory, knotted and bent bamboo, and printed and painted porcelain knobs. Decoration knows no bounds in some cases where parasols are festooned with lace, ribbons, fringing, tassels and pompoms.

Lace covered parasol from Jurbert, probably French,1850s.  TWCMS: J151

Lace covered parasol from Jurbert, probably French,1850s. TWCMS: J151

Warp-printed silk cover, trimmed inside with silk. With a transfer-printed and gilded porcelain handle. 1890s. TWCMS: J1380

Warp-printed silk cover, trimmed inside with silk. With a transfer-printed and gilded porcelain handle. 1890s. TWCMS: J1380

Parasols were a must-have accessory until the late 1920s when suntans started to become fashionable.  By the 1930s they had all but died out – and were flirted with briefly (as surely befits all parasols!) in the post-war years.

This parasol is the latest in the Collection, dating 1910-1925. It is labelled ‘British Make’.  TWCMS: J1387

This parasol is the latest in the Collection, dating 1910-1925. It is labelled ‘British Make’. TWCMS: J1387

Parasol manufacturers

We don’t know whether any of the parasols were made or bought locally, as we haven’t found any such maker’s marks or labels. But we do know that umbrellas and parasols were at least sold here.

One of the main manufacturers of umbrellas and parasols was S. Fox & Co. Ltd. of Stocksbridge, nearSheffield. The Collection has 8 Fox’s parasols.  The firm is still going after 166 years. This is my favourite Fox parasol – with its bold print of peacocks and flowers, probably dating from the 1910s.

TWCMS: J1366.

TWCMS: J1366.

Typical S. Fox & Co Ltd. trademark labels.

Typical S. Fox & Co Ltd. trademark labels.

Mystery makers – Can you Help?

We have some parasols with maker’s labels and marks – but they are a mystery to us.  Can you help identify them?

Gauntlet – British Make – Too Good to Lose

Found on a parasol dating 1900s-1910s.  Also has a label saying ‘Too Good to Lose’.  TWCMS: 2008.3498

Found on a parasol dating 1900s-1910s. Also has a label saying ‘Too Good to Lose’. TWCMS: 2008.3498

Jurbert

Found on a parasol dating from the 1850s, probably French.  TWCMS: J151

Found on a parasol dating from the 1850s, probably French. TWCMS: J151

Perfection

‘Perfection’ trademark or maker’s label, found on two parasols dating from the 1850s-1860s, and the 1890s.  TWCMS: J184

‘Perfection’ trademark or maker’s label, found on two parasols dating from the 1850s-1860s, and the 1890s. TWCMS: J184

C.H.H. London

Found on a parasol dating 1862-1870.

E & C London

Found on a parasol possibly dating around 1905.  TWCMS: J196.

Found on a parasol possibly dating around 1905. TWCMS: J196.

The Collection has about 20 umbrellas, but perhaps their story will have to wait for a rainy day!

References

3.   Jeremy Farrell, The Costume Accessories Series: Umbrellas and Parasols, Batsford, 1985, p. 17

Here comes the Sun

Guest post by Caroline Whitehead.

We all need something frivolous in our lives now and again, and this month I’ve been working with some of the most frivolous things in Tyne & Wear Archives and Museums’ Costume & Textile Collection – the parasols.

All the parasols are kept hanging in cupboards like some weird white bats, wrapped in Tyvek, just waiting to reveal their mysteries.

Parasol storage

Parasol storage

A system for safe storage of parasols was developed by Sharon Robinson during preparation for the store move from the old store at the Laing Art Gallery to Discovery Museum in 2004. In a real labour of love, her mum, Beryl made loads of bags. Now Collection Care Manager at the Museum of London, Sharon has implemented the same style of storage there.  [1]

There are over 90 parasols spanning 150 years or so – from the plain and simple to the frankly frivolous!

Early history

Parasols protect people from the sun, and have a long history dating back to ancient Egypt to around 1200 BCE. They were an indication of rank in many cultures –carried over Egyptian, Greek and Hindu gods, over Emperors from China, Burma and Siam, and over Doges and Popes in the Catholic Church.

They first became a fashion item associated with women in ancient Greece and Rome. However, their history then becomes sketchy, and it is difficult to know whether documentary sources are describing awnings, hoods, canopies, sunshades or parasols as we know them.   But in the 1600s women’s hand-held sunshades start to appear in a new phenomenon – the fashion print (often known as a fashion plate).  It took many decades more before parasols became really fashionable in the late 1770s.

The words ‘umbrella’ and ‘parasol’ were often interchangeable in the 1700s, and people probably used them to protect themselves from both the rain and sun.  Umbrellas were often made of silk, but tended to have larger covers to provide more protection from the elements. Parasols were smaller, lighter, and often highly trimmed.

Walking stick parasol covered in green silk trimmed with a short silk fringe, 1770s – 1800s. TWCMS: J1383

Walking stick parasol covered in green silk trimmed with a short silk fringe, 1770s – 1800s. TWCMS: J1383

Apart from the early parasol above, the Collection has no other examples of the usual more delicate sunshades from the 1800s to the 1820s.  Most of the parasols are Victorian and Edwardian.

Fashion plate from an early women’s magazine, La Belle Assemblée, August 1807. TWCMS: 2006.4768.21

Fashion plate from an early women’s magazine, La Belle Assemblée, August 1807. TWCMS: 2006.4768.21

Victorian parasols

Parasols become a common sight with the rise of the middle class in Victorian Britain – having a suntan certainly was not fashionable!

Carriage parasol from the 1850s. These parasols were hinged in the middle of the stick, making them easy to fold up and put away when not in use. TWCMS: D549

Carriage parasol from the 1850s. These parasols were hinged in the middle of the stick, making them easy to fold up and put away when not in use. TWCMS: D549

In the 1860s, according to the Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine (snappy title!), a middle-class bride with an income of £400 to £600 a year, would be expected to have a trousseau of one umbrella and two parasols – one plain walking parasol and a fancier one. [2]

Walking parasols have  longer handles and spikes. Parasol with a pagoda shaped cover in bronze shot silk, 1862 – 1870. This may have belonged to a member of the Richardson’s, a Quaker family from Newcastle. TWCMS: K2195

Walking parasols have longer handles and spikes. Parasol with a pagoda shaped cover in bronze shot silk, 1862 – 1870. This may have belonged to a member of the Richardson’s, a Quaker family from Newcastle. TWCMS: K2195

One of the most common styles, judging from its survival rate in museums, was the plain black parasol trimmed with silk fringing.  There are 11 in this Collection alone!

Black watered silk (moiré) decorated with satin bands woven round the edge, and trimmed with long black silk fringing. TWCMS: J166

Black watered silk (moiré) decorated with satin bands woven round the edge, and trimmed with long black silk fringing. TWCMS: J166

References

1          ICON News, July 2013 Issue 47 (Front cover and p. 35 -36).

2          Jeremy Farrell, The Costume Accessories Series: Umbrellas and Parasols, Batsford, 1985, p. 46-47

Caroline’s next blog post will talk more about the parasol collection including some of the more decorative ones in the collection and some parasols with mystery makers.